KUALA LUMPUR, June 7 — Would a biscuit by any other name taste as sweet?
I recall this argument during my university days between my American and British friends. For the former, the sweet biscuits favoured by the latter are called cookies in the States.
Real biscuits, they claimed, are buttery and flaky. Sometimes made with buttermilk, sometimes with honey, always great with some cream and jelly or some super crunchy fried chicken.
(This is where my Italian friends might chip in and advocate the superiority of their biscotti, which is an entirely different beast altogether, so let’s not get into that here.)
But what my friends from the States were referring to are what we consider Southern style biscuits, a staple in the American South.
Aren’t Southern style biscuits simply savoury scones though? Well, not quite.
It’s true that scones are typically sweeter. Many recipes call for both cream and milk, which is probably why we tend to picture them served warm, topped with a generous spoonful of jam and a dollop of clotted cream.
Biscuits, on the other hand, are all about the fat. That’s why buttermilk is such a common ingredient in recipes like this one.
Texturally they differ too. Scones, with their British roots, have that slightly crumbly texture, whereas biscuits are all about soft, flaky layers and a rich, buttery flavour. Perfect for pairing with savoury dishes like fried chicken and gravy.
This isn’t a hard and fast rule though; I prefer my Southern style biscuits slathered with cream cheese and small batch fruit preserve.
Indeed, I believe there is ample space — in our eager bellies, certainly — for cookies and biscotti, for scones and biscuits.
Our taste buds will certainly thank us for sampling all of them and deciding which we love the most.
SOUTHERN STYLE BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
These Southern style buttermilk biscuits are golden and flaky, with just a touch of honeyed sweetness.
Here are a few pointers will help you achieve create your dream biscuits:
Start by making sure your butter is thoroughly chilled — this helps the biscuits rise properly in the heat of the oven. One tip is to grate the cold butter and place it in the freezer for about 10 to 15 minutes before combining it with the flour.
As for the liquid, regular milk will work too but buttermilk offers a subtle tang and improves the rise. Its natural acidity reacts with the leavening agents to create a lighter texture.
When you're ready to cut the dough into squares, use a sharp knife dusted lightly with flour. This will prevent the dough from sticking to the knife as you lift each piece.
An alternative method is to use a large cookie cutter for round-shaped biscuits similar to scones. Feel free to do this; I prefer the knife-and-square method as I don’t have to roll the leftover dough back into a rectangle again to cut more rounds.
Ingredients
350g cold unsalted butter
400g all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
280ml cold buttermilk
2 teaspoons honey
50g butter (melted) mixed with ½ teaspoon honey, for brushing
Flaky sea salt, for finishing
Method
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a large baking tray with parchment paper.
Grate the cold butter onto a plate and freeze for 10–15 minutes until hard.
Grate the cold butter. — Picture by CK LimIn a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar.
Add the chilled grated butter to the flour mixture. Toss to coat and mix gently with your hands until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
Add the buttermilk and honey. Stir gently with a spoon until the dough is shaggy and barely combined. Do not overmix.
Buttermilk provides a subtle tang and helps the biscuits rise. — Picture by CK LimTransfer dough to a floured surface. With floured hands, gently pat it into a 1-inch thick rectangular slab.
Fold into half, then turn the dough by 90°. Shape the dough back into a rectangular shape.
Fold the dough. — Picture by CK LimRepeat the folding process two more times until the dough is laminated with layers. Pat the final dough to approximately 1 to 1½ inches thick.
Using a sharp knife, slice the dough into 9 equal squares and transfer to the prepared baking tray.
Bake for 20–25 minutes, rotating the baking tray halfway through, until the tops are golden brown.
Sprinkle flaky sea salt to finish. — Picture by CK LimRemove the biscuits from the oven when done. Brush the melted butter and honey mixture over the biscuits. Sprinkle it with flaky sea salt to finish.
Serve whilst warm.
These Southern-style buttermilk biscuits are golden and flaky, with just a touch of honeyed sweetness
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